How to go about buying your first mechanical watch

It takes a special kind of will to be an analog person in a digital world, but watch connoisseurs are right up there. In an age where wearable tech has outsold every Swiss watch brand in the world, there appears to be no real need to own a mechanical wrist watch. Unless of course, you’re the kind to march to the beat of your own drum, using your own eyes to appreciate mechanical watches for what they truly are – vestiges of history, mechanical sculptures and markers of maturity and taste. Mechanical watches come in all shapes and sizes, so if you’re looking to break from convention and buy your first one, here’s what you should keep in mind.
It’s safe to assume that if it’s your first mechanical watch, it’s unlikely to be a Breguet or an Audemars Piguet. Plenty of brands offer reliable mechanical watches which are budget-friendly, extremely well-finished and friendly. You may not be able to snag an automatic/mechanical watch from a renowned brand for ₹1 lakh, but that doesn’t mean you can’t get a good timepiece out of that budget. Tissot, Sevenfriday, Favre Leuba are among the top Swiss brands offering mechanical watches under ₹1 lakh. The Tissot Gentleman Powermatic Silicium 80, the Sevenfriday T2/01 being prime examples. But if it’s real bang-for-buck you’re looking at, it’s gotta be Seiko, which has an entire range of automatic watches including chronographs, diving and dress watches under ₹60,000.
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It’s always good to start with something reliable, cheap and easy to maintain. For those looking at affordable mechanical watches, look no further than Miyota. Originally created by Japan’s Citizen Watch Co. Miyota movements were later outsourced to independent watchmakers who used its accurate, robust build quality to power some exquisite, ornate timepieces. If it’s something Swiss-made that you want for your maiden mechanical watch purchase, ETA, now owned by Swiss watch conglomerate Swatch that has featured in various brands including Tissot, Longines, Panerai, Omega and other rarefied Swiss watch brands. There’s even an argument to be made for China’s Seagull movements which offer a lot of complexity for their asking price. But if you’re insistent on a Swiss movement that’s also remarkably affordable, Swatch’s Sistem51 movement is the one to go for.
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Then there’s the matter of which material you use. Stainless steel is a good entry point, as it is the most durable and designed for everyday wear. Several watch brands also offer their own proprietary variations of ceramic, which is scratch-resistant, highly durable and hypoallergenic. Rado specialises in ceramic watches (hi-tech ceramic) while Swatch also offers ceramic cases at a more reasonable price point. Should your budget allow it, titanium is among the most lightweight and durable materials while platinum, carbon-fibre and gold are strictly for luxury watches.
There only reason to go for an extremely large wrist-watch, ranging between 44mm – 47mm is if you want to ensure that it’s noticed. However, if you have a moderate or slender wrist, this can come at a great aesthetic cost. Watch sizes are no longer associated with gender or notions of masculinity with several luxury Swiss watchmakers making larger 38mm watches for women, and releasing smaller ones for men who prefer it. A larger wrist watch doesn’t necessarily accommodate more complications or is inherently superior to the smaller one. The type of metal and make of the watch determines that. Anything between 38mm to 42mm is ideal, although for the truly slim-wristed, a 36mm is a better fit.
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Your first mechanical watch should ideally be purchased from a trusted retailer. Avoid buying it online as feeling the heft of the watch and inspecting its quality up-close helps you make a more informed decision. It also allows you to try out a variety of brands and see what’s on offer at different price points. Most importantly, it gives you the luxury of haggling for a discount. Remember, these prices aren’t set in stone, and a different (equally reliable retailer) might give you a better price. Purchasing a watch that has easy and reliable serviceability is also a major factor.
Purchasing a mechanical watch is just the beginning of a journey. Like any mechanical object, watches need upkeep. Not like a gramophone, but it does involve routine practices winding (if it isn’t a self-winding one), avoiding exposure to water or harsh chemicals (in case it isn’t water resistant), ensuring regular service every three to five years and storing it in a place where there’s no direct sunlight or extreme heat.
If you must stretch your budget and go for an Omega, do it for the right reason: the reason being everyday wear which allows you to look at the watch and enjoy its craftsmanship and beauty. Mechanical watches have considerably greater longevity than silicon slabs from big tech. They are great heirlooms to be handed down generations, but they aren’t all great investments. The ones that are, like a Rolex Daytona, can’t be purchased at list price. In fact it’s next to impossible for a first time buyer to purchase a grail watch by simply walking into a boutique and signing a big cheque.